DCC Workshop

 Hello folks. Recently I received a package from Amazon that enabled me to complete another small job that had been on my "to do" list. Here's what I received:

VCE (10 Pairs) 2.1x5.5mm DC Power Cable Jack Adapter for CCTV Camera and LED Strip - 10 Male&10 Female: Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement

I used these to wire all my DCC programming components at my DCC work area to enable me to rapidly switch my programming track back and forth between my 2 DCC programming systems as well as regular DC. I also am now able to quickly change over from my programming track to my ESU decoder tester as well - no longer will I have to use alligator clips and screw and unscrew wires into the terminal blocks on various components. Originally I was going to make a small panel with a couple of rotary switches , but decided I didn't want to go through all the soldering and such. By using these quick disconnect plugs and neatly using wire clips and zip ties, I was able to make the wiring neat and out of the way for the most part. Here is my DCC work area:

In the above picture, you can see my 2 DCC programming systems 1. Digitrax PR3 (with DCC Specialties Power PAX booster) and 2. ESU Lok Programmer. Both these systems connect to the Netbook PC with  USB Cables ( both neatly coiled and hung on wall hooks in the picture above). I use the PR3 with JMRI and the ESU with the Lok Programmer software. I purchased the Netbook PC ( 10 inch screen) several years ago specifically because of its size and what I intended to use it for - it wasn't brand new, but was reconditioned and had Windows 7 installed on it. Because it is circa 2010 vintage, it sure isn't the fastest PC, but it works great for what I use it for and I love its small compact size. The only software loaded on it is the Lok Programmer software, JMRI and Digitrax Sound Loader software. It still has enough speed that if I want to look something up on the internet that I can without going upstairs to my "normal" laptop. On the shelf above the hardware, I have both HO and N scale test tracks which not only allow me to program decoders, but because both JMRI and ESU Lok Programmer have throttles built in , I can test any changes as well on the fly. In the picture above, my ESU Decoder tester is currently hooked up to the Lok Programmer and the PR3 is connected to the HO Scale test/programming track. I have a small vertical stack of drawers under the left side of the desk and my soldering station on the desktop. Having a well lite area and everything that you need for decoder installs close at hand sure makes for a more relaxed work environment. Till next time....

New Loco

 Hello folks - no Freight Car Friday this week - however I did receive a long awaited package in the mail yesterday afternoon from Pacific Western Rail Systems Pacfic Western Railway (pwrs.ca)

In August of 2019 Athearn announced a new release of their Genesis GP 7 model in Maine Central Harvest Yellow paint scheme. I had not purchased any of the Athearn Genesis locos since the late 90's when I purchased one of the lines first releases - a Canadian National SD70 (sold off years ago), so I was curious as to the quality of the line after 20+ years. I opted for a non-sound equipped version. They are offered in four road numbers  - I picked # 567 , as 2 of the offered road numbers were the same #'s as the Atlas models released back around 2005 in the same paint scheme of which I already have on my roster ( which I must say still work great!) The model was well packaged with a heavy box and foam inserts with a plastic tray that the model is secured with along with all the associated paperwork (exploded parts diagram, etc.). I did have a small disappointment when I opened the model  - one of the etched metal radiator side grills at the back end had fallen off - not a big issue as I quickly (and carefully ) glued it back in place - just a little disappointing when you pay this much for a model! Several months ago , I picked up a new 21 Pin TCS decoder (EU621) to have on hand when I received the locomotive  EU621 | Train Control Systems (tcsdcc.com)   Removing the shell of this model was straight forward - only requiring the removal of the couplers and coupler boxes and the shell lifted easily off. I installed the EU621 decoder and replaced the shell and installing a new set of Kadee #158 ( scale head whisker couplers). Removal of the shell on the model is much easier than doing that on the Atlas GP7 models. I placed the loco on my programming track in my workshop and used JMRI to change a couple of settings including the address # and to have independent control of the front and rear lights ( something I prefer). That was about it and then onto the layout for a test run - It runs very nicely with smooth slow speed performance. It seems to be slightly lighter than my Atlas models, so I would suspect that it might not be able to pull as much, however i don't think that will be an issue as I don't run long trains. Their has been a lot of discussion on the MEC Facebook page about this model - seems some folks are disappointed in the paint color - it definitely is a different shade of Harvest Yellow than the comparable Atlas models and that has caused a fair amount of negative comments. That being said ,I think it is a very well done model esp. with the MEC specific detail parts ( nose bell , horn , etc.)and am glad to have it in my collection. Till next time folks.....

Athearn Genesis MEC GP7 #567

DCC RRamp Meter

 Yesterday, I finally got around to one of those "small" jobs that have been on my list since I built my On30 switching layout several years ago. I had a DCC Specialties RRamp Meter that I purchase a number of years ago from Tonys Train Exchange https://tonystrains.com/product/dcc-specialties-rrampmeter-ii

This meter was installed on my old HO scale layout ( pictures can be seen in some old blog entries pre 2011). When I had it installed on my old layout, I only had one set of wires connect to the rails - this only showed the track voltage. I had always had in mind to install it properly so that it also showed the amperage draw as well, but never did get around to it before that layout was torn down. The meter was stored in a box ( along with several other electrical components such as PSX circuit breakers, DCC plug in panels , etc) up until a couple of days ago when I decide to install it properly on my new layout. I guess one of the reasons that I delayed, was that the thought of cutting into my fascia ( and the risk of "messing it up" didn't appeal greatly to me. I went online and found the proper cutting template and printed it off. I then cut out the template, carefully cutting the hole out ( extra care and patience doing this pays off when the actual fascia cutting starts) and then taping it into position on the fascia. I used a small hole saw in my drill to make the initial hole which I then enlarge with a keyhole saw followed by trimming with a Stanley carpet knife with a new sharp blade. It worked out well and the meter fit in perfectly. In order for both the amperage and voltage displays to work, I wired it so that the left side took the direct output of the Lenz command station and the output on the right side of the meter then went to my PSX 1 circuit break . The output of the circuit breaker then feeds the main DCC bus wires. Luckily I had two unused terminals on the main terminal block located under the layout - this made the wiring quick and easy to do. The job took me a couple of hours to do and the install maintains the "clean " look of the fascia that I like. Now I can keep an eye on the electrical status of my layout at a quick glance. Till next time....

Freight Car Friday (the 13 th)

 Hi folks - didnt realize it was Friday the 13th until I sat down to submit this post - hopefully I will make it through the rest of the day unscathed!!! I pulled out an old Walthers kit that I picked up for $8 back in the spring of 2019 at a train show in New Brunswick. It is a Maine Central (MEC) waffle side boxcar. The enclosed paperwork gave a pretty good history lesson on the origins of this car - it was an interesting read. The kit however was not all that interesting  - it was made back in the early 90's  -  at a time when Walthers was still only including horn hook couplers and plastic wheel sets - ugh! It is what I would consider an "operators freight car" i.e one with molded on ladders and other details - not a car that would be easily damaged from the rough handling common in some operating sessions. The paint work was relatively good and the kit went together in under an hour. I tried adding Kadee #148's to this car, but found that they were too short in length - luckily I had some Kadee #146"s  - - they are the long shank center set versions of the #148's and fit correctly  - The only other change I made was to install a pair of metal wheel set trucks ( 70 ton -3 spring) .It is not what I would consider a "foreground quality car" but is certainly suitable to use in making up a train and to be spotted at an appropriate industry. Another plus is that back at the time of its release, it was priced so that the average joe could afford to have several of these cars without breaking the bank. Till next time.....

Freight Car Friday

 Happy Friday all - well its been  a bit of a nail biter week with the US election and all. It still has not been decided yet and the differences in the key states at this time are very close - hopefully it will be over soon and the folks in the US can move forward. I did take some time to complete a Proto 2000 PS 2 hopper that I mentioned in my last post. It is one of their "Time Saver" kits and although it stated on the box that it takes one hour (or less) to build to have it ready to go on your layout, it took me I would say more in the line of approx 2.5 to 3 hours in total to complete. I like to take my time with a kit and take extra care when removing parts from sprue trees and clean up the parts afterward. The biggest  difference with this kit to the last full (BCOL) kit that I did (see previous posts) is that the end cages and associated break gear are already completed and installed - the same goes for the roof and the associated hatches and hinges -saving what I would guess to be a couple of hours work. I did notice that on some of the bottom pieces ( trough hatches and break lines ) that once they were removed from the sprues, you cut see the cut marks as they were off color. Luckily the bottom of this car is a flat black color, so I was easily able to touch these up with some Polly Scale steam colored black paint that I had on hand. I have seen this in other brands of kits and kinda always thought it would be a great idea if  Kit manufactures included some appropriate colored paint in the kits to do touch ups - I guess that in some cases though if a kit was not built for a number of years ( such as in this case) the included paint would be long ago dried up - oh well it was a thought!. This car is a bright yellow color ( not my favorite color for a freight car) and so once completed, got a good coat of Dullcoate to hide any glue marks as  well as to tone down the yellow - it turned out ok. The only other mod I made was to add Kadee # 148 whisker couplers - which I now add to any new freight car on my roster - cant remember last time I used the old #5's. Have a great weekend all. Till next time...

Proto 2000 PS2 4427 Hopper "Time Saver" kit